Among the novelties of this year, I mean the teas that I am offering for the very first time, one of the most interesting is the Sôfû cultivar from Kawane. Although not premeditated, I have been able to get my hands on several of this cultivar this year, and this one is quite high end, therefore “competing” with Tamakawa in Hon.yama.
Sôfû is one of those cultivars which are designated as of the “inzatsu” type, ie a variety resulting from crosses with a variety of Indian origin. More exactly, Sôfû is the result of the crossing Yabukita x Inzatsu 131. Inzatsu 131 being precisely a cultivar which was selected from a seed coming from a Manipuri 15 tea plant introduced from India at the beginning of the 1920s. Tannic tendency and possessing a very particular floral scent, Inzatsu 131 was never officially registered despite a potential which seemed nevertheless attractive. I think it is precisely today that varieties like Inzatsu 131 deserve to be put forward and more exploited.
If the crossing Inzatsu 131 x Yabukita is at the origin of the too rare Fujikaori, it is the reverse cross in 1977, Yabukita (flower) x Inzatsu (pollen) which produced Sôfû, recorded in 2005. Relatively little astringent and rich in methyl anthranilate, a molecule found in jasmine, certain grapes and other fruits, it is one of the cultivars very popular with tea lovers thanks to its unique aromas. Hasty and not very resistant to cold, it is nevertheless difficult to grow anywhere, thus limiting its development.
With this Kawane Sôfû we have a very well process, top-of-the-range sencha even, which is evident in the character of this tea.
From the first infusion, you should start with sufficiently hot water, at least 80 ° C. The infusion is very fragrant, it is a globally sweet bouquet in which one feels the typical floral aromas of Inzatsu cultivars, but also and above all of grapes.
This sencha is absolutely neither tannic nor astringent, we find a pleasant touch of umami on the palate among all these sweet, floral and fruity aromas.
With successive infusions, always hotter, the strength of the aromas not only does not weaken but intensifies, without ever developing astringency.
It is a rich and characteristic sencha, particularly elegant.
If we have to compare with the one from Tamakawa in Hon.yama (another mountain production area of Shizuoka), I would say that in addition to the firing, much stronger on Tamakawa, there are differences in the sensations in the mouth. Hon.yama is more mineral, denser, with an umami that appears on the after-taste, while Kawane seems more fluid, more based on an umami that appears frontal. As for the aromas, it really appears as the common thread, the similarities becoming particularly evident from the second infusion, the Hon.yama tending a little more towards the floral, while the grape seems more based on the Kawane.
These two teas are perfect to compare Hon.yama and Kawane. (at first glance, the Hon.yama seems sweeter and more fragrant, but this comes from the firing, very pleasant, but which thus also hides a little the specific aromas of Sôfû, at least on the first infusion).
Categories: Reviews
Japanese Tea Sommelier 
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